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There really is belief that this city has its own set of rules and laws. A saying has it that Thailand has never been colonised by anybody, except by Bangkok” [p. 178]. The painting is “Country of Bangkok” by Prakit Kobkijwattana. Photo by Christopher Wise [p. 173]. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623326279128-G4YYLBXU7SOIBEVGN5DA/image2-1.png Reviews - The Isaan Record - Make it stand out Caption: “Ugly Bangkok,” a map of Bangkok biases by architect Rackchart Wongarthichart, showing “how ‘nationalistic education’ leads ‘half of inner Bangkokians’ (aka ‘Thailand’) to view other regions and neighbours” [p. 187]. (slightly censored) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623326689779-USE30U2M2XZCNUQNQDHP/Screenshot+2021-06-10+at+19.00.00.png Reviews - The Isaan Record - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623326649223-0VMRBF2L5OOVC47ITSC6/verybangkok-728x1024.jpg Reviews - The Isaan Record - Make it stand out Philip Cornwel-Smith, Very Bangkok : In the City of the Senses (Bangkok: River Books, 2020), 260 p., ISBN 9786164510432, 995 baht. https://www.verybangkok.co/blog-2/bangkok-101 monthly 0.5 2022-06-30 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622895955920-4AEBMXDUGW3PJKL33NZO/risk-everything-express-boat___MG_0617-e1621831109925.jpg Reviews - Bangkok 101 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622895876567-UTG1G5X2REK3UURZDXGB/redevelopment-in-Soi-Ruam-Rudi-IMG_9284-1024x768.jpg Reviews - Bangkok 101 - Make it stand out Redevelopment in Soi Ruam Rudi https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622896050145-EWRXKIE543BBOZBCUH2B/verybangkok-728x1024.jpg Reviews - Bangkok 101 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622895790648-CHZLEX1OXIDO0XRW7JDL/Slide1-2.jpg Reviews - Bangkok 101 - Make it stand out Creative Bangkok Senses walk: (left) Tuk tuk loudspeakers, (right) Morlam kid busker Siam https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622896273126-0Y5D1ETI872EYT04C20O/Screenshot+2021-06-05+at+19.30.09.png Reviews - Bangkok 101 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622896304703-6PL76KR4TOTVY55RJCQ8/Screenshot+2021-06-05+at+19.30.43.png Reviews - Bangkok 101 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622895847265-BR1NJZ6BQ6ZATAZ4JRJY/Talad-Noi-shophouse-commnity-P2500474-1024x769.jpg Reviews - Bangkok 101 - Make it stand out Talad Noi shophouse community https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622896289440-V501U70YQAWCDXA4SNCM/Screenshot+2021-06-05+at+19.30.27.png Reviews - Bangkok 101 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622895909699-S9MCA7S2XKDI46LVBBGK/Slide1-1.jpg Reviews - Bangkok 101 - Make it stand out (left) Girls in Khlong Toei, (right) Bangkok Midtown Siam project https://www.verybangkok.co/blog-2/blog-post-title-one-xnfrz monthly 0.5 2021-05-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616560591454-03YPOLDO4FV1JC2ZSFLY/Very+Bangkok+%E2%80%93+Bangkok+River.jpg Reviews - 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Thailand Expat Writers List https://www.verybangkok.co/blog-2/mzjyjfccvwv5y0u0uodve7nhm6bdfp monthly 0.5 2021-05-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620978529279-023VAKVXT8OSDGGGMURW/%E2%80%98Very+Bangkok%E2%80%99-+In+search+of+the+contemporary+in+the+city+of+senses+%7C+Eleven+Media+Group+Co.%2C+Ltd.jpg Reviews - Eleven Myanmar - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/blog-2/jakarta-post monthly 0.5 2021-03-24 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616566046483-XLHIJXTP2YL1P1PG3FK4/Screenshot+2021-03-24+at+13.05.32.png Reviews - Jakarta Post https://www.verybangkok.co/blog-2/blog-post-title-four-b22d3 monthly 0.5 2021-05-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616566090235-15ZX9YJ188HYERJY1JZ9/Screenshot+2020-11-05+at+20.00.01.png Reviews - City Life Chiang Mai https://www.verybangkok.co/blog-2/tsw4356iw2g2brcd5rlbpgnp9ha8qq monthly 0.5 2021-05-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620970464789-O56GFSTE8L1T3WLX9N7X/VB+Siam+Society+Journal+108+Reviews_Page_2.jpg Reviews - 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PVC Pipe Dreams - Make it stand out Partitions using PVC pipes and their original craft version in bamboo. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623923088804-1RFPPCTD58BZSCP5IODB/BDW-crowd-check-DSCF8673-1024x683.jpg Blog - PVC Pipe Dreams - Make it stand out Crowd Check installation at Bangkok Design Week by Everyday Architect https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623923116235-C7ZYYOLNROC9Y1XUZ5BP/blue+pipe+things.jpg Blog - PVC Pipe Dreams - Make it stand out Blue pipe contraptions: alcohol gel dispenser, Covid isolation gurney, clothes rack. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623922872254-5JKAOAYWEILNN1GTNUS7/Everyday-Design-blue-pipe-street-tidy-1024x1024.jpg Blog - PVC Pipe Dreams - Make it stand out Everyday Design – blue pipe street tidy by Chatchawan Suwansawat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623922846234-LJ85DVXFKZMM2HD777ZO/Everyday-Design-blue-pipe-cart-attachment.jpg Blog - PVC Pipe Dreams - Make it stand out Everyday Design – blue pipe cart railing by Chatchawan Suwansawat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623923040065-77EECMQLUM6OVDVM950M/pipe-partions-at-a-bank-IMG_3441-1024x768.jpg Blog - PVC Pipe Dreams - Make it stand out Even smart venues like banks use PVC covid partitions. https://www.verybangkok.co/blog-3/blog-post-title-three-e4dlj monthly 0.5 2021-06-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623648083341-9QFDZ0H254E1POKSS1CX/Chula+graduations.jpg Blog - The Most Primate City - Make it stand out A casual celebration of Chulalongkorn University students’ graduation https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623648217851-BEYGMAEJNPNNFQ5PUTU5/Thai-tree-of-life-shadow-puppet-by-Chusak-SrikwanIMG_1292-e1623480998911-1024x1024.jpg Blog - The Most Primate City - Make it stand out Thai Tree of Life shadow puppet by Chusak Srikwan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623648358378-3MUBKZS1ST7Z5XPFP4M3/Country-of-Bangkok-painting-by-Prakit-Kobkijwattana.-Photo-by-Christopher-Wise-1-775x1024.png Blog - 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Talisman Trends - Make it stand out Ai Khai or Egg Boy, a version of the primeval Golden Boy spirit assistant, at Wat Chedi in Nakhon Sri Thammarat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622894959601-7LTF0Z8CQZPDV3MLOWMU/Tha-PrachanDSC02273-sml-scaled-e1622638666328-784x1024.jpg Blog - Talisman Trends - Make it stand out Trendy talismans, cast in resin, and faux coloured gems. Found in Tha Prachan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622895003049-6GLWJEZ8XNYVINA9X4BM/Madam-Choops-amulet-cakes-4-1024x1024.jpg Blog - Talisman Trends - Make it stand out Madam Choops’ amulet cakes https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622895114738-NX3K6VGYXM8OVGPHLOIF/Slide1.jpg Blog - Talisman Trends - Make it stand out (left) An amulet jacket in Amphawa; (right) Jatukham amulet painter in Chatuchak https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1622894889045-ILXQHYFRM1YNOP70VN2R/Tha-Prachan-DSC02258-sml-scaled-e1622637972964.jpg Blog - Talisman Trends - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/blog-3/blog-post-title-one-5fzzt monthly 0.5 2021-06-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1617254765716-IOJS9LKZ8741AFMTA1AV/DSC09492-1536x1052.jpg Blog - Mango Art Festival: A Weekend-Long Showcase of Thai Contemporary Art https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1617254826883-RDWKLO073JSE2WQCERM6/DSC09693-1024x683.jpg Blog - Mango Art Festival: A Weekend-Long Showcase of Thai Contemporary Art https://www.verybangkok.co/talks daily 0.75 2021-05-12 https://www.verybangkok.co/talks/blog-post-title-two-danrk monthly 0.5 2021-05-12 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620798139291-M0TBOL5GHZVZNHTVM651/Screenshot+2021-05-12+at+12.41.59.png Talks - ANGLO-THAI SOCIETY: IN THE CITY OF THE SENSES - Make it stand out Some of the Anglo-Thai Society joining their first lockdown zoom talk, on the topic of Very Bangkok. https://www.verybangkok.co/talks/blog-post-title-four-rghdm monthly 0.5 2021-05-12 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620805062233-JMAYDTRLBOK4IYP7RYJX/Screenshot+2021-03-22+at+15.33.56.png Talks - INTERNATIONAL Petcha kutcha day 20.02.2020 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620803640451-JNWB017ZYOVLHZ8BUCS5/%E0%B8%A0%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%82%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%98%E0%B9%8C-Pecha-Kucha-Night-20.jpg Talks - INTERNATIONAL Petcha kutcha day 20.02.2020 - Make it stand out All the speakers at the Bangkok segment of the rolling global webcast on Petcha Kutcha’s International Day at 20:00 on 20.02.2020 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620804992885-4ZBAUCH30P9IJ03IT54K/2020-02-20+Pecha+Kucha+City+in+20+Senses.png Talks - INTERNATIONAL Petcha kutcha day 20.02.2020 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620805164677-QJAPRI4JMERMM4KKYV3G/%E0%B8%A0%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%82%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%98%E0%B9%8C-Pecha-Kucha-Night-5.jpg Talks - INTERNATIONAL Petcha kutcha day 20.02.2020 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/talks/blog-post-title-one-78syw monthly 0.5 2021-05-12 https://www.verybangkok.co/talks/blog-post-title-three-dk5zw monthly 0.5 2021-05-12 https://www.verybangkok.co/panels daily 0.75 2021-06-17 https://www.verybangkok.co/panels/blog-post-title-one-wt337 monthly 0.5 2021-06-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620805827147-VJR1VPD4786T68OQD6VB/BAB04550.jpg Panels - BANGKOK ART BIENNALE 2020: SYMPOSIUM II - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620806103248-PSF3IPSRH0LNBD5D7WV0/BAB04551+sml.jpg Panels - BANGKOK ART BIENNALE 2020: SYMPOSIUM II - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620805982171-6HGFDAWDLFACYOCHRV4G/Symposium-2-for-Website-16.jpg Panels - BANGKOK ART BIENNALE 2020: SYMPOSIUM II - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/panels/1zdwzrljbgxxj0imcjgld1zfzlh3wc monthly 0.5 2021-06-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623929681786-F43EZV2V83SN2204D1JP/IMG_2793-300x223.jpg Panels - Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Thailand - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/panels/1bctle22uultv7075yxf1zv2v4qnl2 monthly 0.5 2021-06-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623931511472-I8TFY2L4F685ZN9YZPTT/Bangkok%27s+leading+Edge+BK+Edge.jpg Panels - Bangkok Edge Festival - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/articles daily 0.75 2021-05-14 https://www.verybangkok.co/articles/cover-kitchen monthly 0.5 2021-05-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620993218351-8MXPWH7RPLBCVSXD76RA/Screenshot+2021-05-14+at+18.46.33.png Articles - COVER KITCHEN - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620993633504-1BMKZQX7IB3PG770SPHG/Screenshot+2021-05-14+at+18.59.21.png Articles - COVER KITCHEN - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620993236910-C86CMLP31FW6CBFOESFN/Screenshot+2021-05-14+at+18.46.44.png Articles - COVER KITCHEN - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620993253916-O3OH6R2WWRKIL7H74QVT/Screenshot+2021-05-14+at+18.46.56.png Articles - COVER KITCHEN - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/articles/blog-post-title-one-e6alx monthly 0.5 2021-05-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620984947609-C20BV6RQBGH6RC0I4WSE/GUARDIAN+BKK+Virtual+tour+2.jpg Articles - The Guardian - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620985139179-9UM3Q3XJAUU16E4I2V93/Guardian+Bkk+Virtual+tour+3.jpg Articles - The Guardian - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620984890316-8FNZ69G21UC6PAPWCAIH/GUARDIAN+BK+VIRTUAL+TOUR+1.jpg Articles - The Guardian - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/articles/blog-post-title-three-5tcnx monthly 0.5 2021-05-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620986483282-ANLFA8RWCGJ2GDY9XDWZ/Screenshot+2021-05-14+at+16.59.54.png Articles - KHAO SOD ENGLISH - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620986465082-KBC04F29BD79KJYDEDPY/Screenshot+2021-05-14+at+16.59.21.png Articles - KHAO SOD ENGLISH - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/podcasts daily 0.75 2021-05-14 https://www.verybangkok.co/podcasts/blog-post-title-one-d7879 monthly 0.5 2021-05-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620988093676-JXIVQ2LWPZ4MU8YSXH58/%E2%80%8ERob+Goldstone+is+an+Englishman+in+...-+SIAM+-+Philip+Cornwel-Smith+Ep+35+on+Apple+Podcasts.jpg Podcasts - Rob Goldstone podcast: ‘An Englishman in… SIAM’ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/podcasts/blog-post-title-three-6nnzn monthly 0.5 2021-05-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620995176699-CQORNVPL2QGITA54RBX9/Screenshot+2021-05-12+at+12.23.07.png Podcasts - Anglo-Thai Society: ‘Very Bangkok’ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/podcasts/blog-post-title-four-za82m monthly 0.5 2021-05-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620995543791-IKDQIQHKSWJ859YUKC15/Screenshot+2021-03-21+at+16.20.54.png Podcasts - Evil O (Waswo X Waswo podcast): ‘Very Bangkok: Philip Cornwel-Smith in conversation’ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620995522146-EW6Z9LHHSU31QA5OI26O/Screenshot+2021-03-21+at+16.21.08.png Podcasts - Evil O (Waswo X Waswo podcast): ‘Very Bangkok: Philip Cornwel-Smith in conversation’ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/podcasts/blog-post-title-two-b345x monthly 0.5 2021-05-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620994855681-E3UTQFUWEKRTDD2XWT9E/Screenshot+2021-03-22+at+15.21.11.png Podcasts - Talk Travel Asia Episode 111: ‘Very Bangkok with Philip Cornwel Smith’ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/documentaries daily 0.75 2021-06-18 https://www.verybangkok.co/documentaries/blog-post-title-one-m5dt4 monthly 0.5 2021-06-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624002981574-7W5P8ZHUBU13VXU3D4JQ/World-in-Motion-poster+web.jpg Documentaries - World in motion - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/documentaries/blog-post-title-two-ja8sa monthly 0.5 2021-06-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624003186128-6FL9F2NHKS6KEV5R04EY/NZZ+Bangkok+between+order+%26+chaos+website.jpg Documentaries - Megalopolis Between Order & Chaos (NZZ) - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/documentaries/david-thompsons-thai-streetfood monthly 0.5 2021-06-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624004085656-K6ZSYROONJD18VF1V9G0/David+Thompson+Streetfood+TV+DSC01242.jpg Documentaries - David Thompson’s Thai Streetfood - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624004019638-515GMEF2XL8NZGQN3BKD/David+Thompson+Streetfood+TV+DSC01245.jpg Documentaries - David Thompson’s Thai Streetfood - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624004057560-R3V0T47N7J5IPUR7JBM6/David+Thompson+Streetfood+TV+DSC01251.jpg Documentaries - David Thompson’s Thai Streetfood - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/documentaries/blog-post-title-three-4j637 monthly 0.5 2021-06-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624003667689-CR3YIMRNTQK9IZ8H8M76/Waterfront+cities+pPORTS+500x500.jpg Documentaries - WATERFRONT CITIES OF THE WORLD - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624003420409-LHD9E1JRNKEC5F1Z9R7T/Waterfront+cities+pic+b+2017-06-23-at-11.27.03-AM-crop-300x212.png Documentaries - WATERFRONT CITIES OF THE WORLD - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624003403420-72W8YJTDYKZ4MEH30AKF/Waterfront+cities+pic++c+2017-06-23-at-11.27.30-AM-crop-300x203.png Documentaries - WATERFRONT CITIES OF THE WORLD - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624003381926-SBVAHZJPOH7OHWVXJGKQ/Waterfront+cities+pic++d+2017-06-23-at-11.27.49-AM-crop-300x206.png Documentaries - WATERFRONT CITIES OF THE WORLD - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/documentaries/blog-post-title-four-89y8z monthly 0.5 2021-06-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624002829686-IT9JXDDXQX4VBXUJ4NV7/01%2B1giantleap%2Bphoto%2Bwebcopy.jpg Documentaries - 1 Giant Leap - Make it stand out Philip (right) with Duncan Bridgeman (left), Jessica Catto and Jamie Catto (middle) after a shoot in Bangkok for 1 Giant Leap https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624002306033-GKQ1M08SVNWK4U3X2JTU/1Giant+leap+album+cover.jpg Documentaries - 1 Giant Leap - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/exhibitions daily 0.75 2021-06-18 https://www.verybangkok.co/exhibitions/blog-post-title-one-xa8pn monthly 0.5 2021-06-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624008427401-L3KRJ8FX7YMZRO1YSSN0/CC+Bangkok+page+web.jpg Exhibitions - Countless Cities - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/home daily 1.0 2022-06-04 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616646846049-I9H7LI2AA8JXN8NO3IKG/VB_cover.jpg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624866004908-K8P9QZXBUYWZJETWTS3S/CC+Bangkok+page+web.jpg Home - 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PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH A freelance writer and photographer on Thailand Philip also speaks in podcasts, talks, panels and documentaries. Born in England, he has lived in Bangkok since 1994, as founding editor of its first city magazine, Metro, and later of Time Out Bangkok city guide. He has co-curated exhibitions for TCDC, Goethe Institut, Zen and the Bangkok pavilion in Italy’s ‘Countless Cities’ biennale. More details at PhilipCornwel-Smith.com His influential bestseller, Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture defined the cultural category of Thai street life that Thais often label #verythai. An iconic object itself, Very Thai has been curated by others as a gallery exhibit, video installation and subject of stage performances. More details at VeryThai.com https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616423725943-FJ4TPKBWT4UZALDK4TJN/_59A1562.jpg Home - author & PHOTOGRAPHER Philip Cornwel-Smith is a freelance writer, photographer and cultural pundit focusing on Thailand and Southeast Asia, whose work has been published and exhibited internationally. Born in England, he has lived in Bangkok since 1994, when he became founding editor of its first city magazine, Metro, and later of Time Out Bangkok city guide. He is best known for the influential bestseller, Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture. It’s a legendary source book that defined the cultural category of informal Thai street life that gets labelled #verythai. An iconic object, Very Thai has been curated by other artists as a gallery exhibit, video installation and subject of stage performances. Very Thai has its own life. Philip often speaks in podcasts, festivals, panel talks and documentaries. He co-curated the exhibition Invisible Things for the Goethe Institut and the Bangkok pavilion in Italy’s ‘Countless Cities’ biennale. EDITORS Consultant Editor Marc Pachter is Director Emeritus of the Smithsonian Institution. He was director of its National Museum of American History and National Portrait Gallery, where he founded the Living Portraits series. Editor Alex Kerr is an expert on Asian culture, especially Japan. He founded Chiiori Trust and wrote Lost Japan and Another Kyoto, as well as Bangkok Found. Publisher & DESIGNERS Based in London and Bangkok, River Books publishes books on mainland Southeast Asian art, history and culture, both heritage and contemporary. Primarily in English, their list also includes fiction, Thai literature in translation and Thai-language titles on similar subjects. Contact publisher Narisa Chakrabongse at narisachakra@gmail.com. Cover design by Xavi Comas of Cover Kitchen Book layout design by 1000 Ponies This portrait by Cedric Arnold https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616403962267-FP7GYOF7KXNB166XSNQS/VB+title+page.jpg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616403968910-1BRDLGQXWU3ORI11Z1L5/VB+Contents+spread.jpg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616404282089-7I35JQ38MOAXG92JL431/VB+Touch+opener+spread.jpg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616404292992-967VE4LOKTL7DGDM6PQB/VB+Vertical+living+spread.jpg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616404310640-ELR2TZDFCPPYVK055NU0/VB+Bangkokian+opener+spread.jpg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616404329302-WAFZGZUZF2PSRARGJXK4/VB+Isaan+spread.jpg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616404341174-0R0T85R8VORM4E718O9N/VB+Creative+City+opener+spread.jpg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616404356713-FD05OYLYF8QL7MNOIQL7/VB+Portrayals+opener+spread.jpg Home https://www.verybangkok.co/contact daily 0.75 2021-06-18 https://www.verybangkok.co/biennale daily 0.75 2021-07-25 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624273180411-TX52HJ9Q6D916VH1Y27Z/_18-0508-10+Siam+Ratchada+P2400378.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624432848233-FMDHD18Z5YHNH7PP761H/CC+Bangkok+page+web.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624274459338-EOADEZ4FW0MSVJCV1FRP/__19-0124+Baiyoke+Ratchaprasong+P2480457.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624022584922-NYU4EAOEB0DPJ0TG6HYM/_08-0519-Bang-Kradi--Rich-housing-estate-8627.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624272695963-2GHAVYZF8FW5N9E9833D/*PCS+20040826-05-0217+Street+Bar+Nana-05-0217+BK+street+bar+fairy+Nana+213_1319.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624275752651-N7OFS3THPRUX6X080LSH/_-15-1023-Bkk-pantip-midtown-tuktuk-spider-IMG_3499.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624022321191-BZNMKF5JUJ12MKX0P4OZ/_-18-0514-Paragon-ich-bin-ein-Bangkokian-IMG_3768.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624365696251-Y1L2YEWN56PQ8VWQPG9G/__10-1024+Lanna+Fest+W+Wachirathamsathit+BK-10-1024+Lanna+Fest+W+Wachirathamsathit+BK+9470.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624273195672-PV8O1L3L9RWV8DKG9X7I/_-IMG_9284.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624273110319-TZ9TTF7FT6UIWJ9LKEZH/vendor-on-bts-IMG_1620.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624275472910-7JXY5O8FB2YF9FGOGDAT/*13-0629+Craig+50th-DSC00663+PCS.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624275527380-DU7L82AMMKO576EQPY6L/___MG_0617.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624271111755-CB6LZSVK7IARWE6CJU8A/19-0120+Art+in+Soi+festival+Thai+Dindaeng+P2480333+sml.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Per un festival artistico locale, un residente del distretto di Thonburi ha modificato la propria bicicletta per rappresentare la statua equestre del fondatore di Thonburi, il re Taksin, realizzata con il tipo di ghirlande generalmente offerte alla statua. For a local arts festival, a resident of Thonburi district created this bicycle sculpture to represent the equestrian statue of Thonburi’s founder, King Taksin, made from the kind of garlands offered to the statue. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624273224336-I78411R5CNTAPQW4GUHP/11-0531+Thonburi+mosques+_MG_7242.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624021392528-2HPIH0FCJB2KVYO3G329/image-asset.jpeg Biennale https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624273515403-O3ZDGB907ZTXSTN3M62A/**PCS+20080811-08-08%2609+Nang+Lerng+Wat+Suan+Kaew+Taling+Chan-_MG_0449.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624275494330-90TM2WMM2VAUY3LXXPE5/08-0310-Janet-Palace-canals-_MG_5962.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624272794837-0KFU7Q9QS2BXQV7JWY4V/*16-0127+Trad+fair+DSC08030+web.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624274280760-7VWZMA4X3EU8GNW78U2T/__17-0924+sound+of+Architecture+P2350765.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624363065335-4Y15EI8VCXDIJUE8Q3FE/*DSCF0490.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624272878643-F9MYIL7C3GNFTJCQ9EP3/13-0324+Petchaburi+Rd+DSC00100.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624021274321-M0GF8KUYCO38554QOVNO/image-asset.jpeg Biennale https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624275560089-TPQGVA1BEL3REOVM1O1Q/*PCS+20100112-10-0120+CM+Baan+Boo+Loo-IMG_3394.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624272814498-LNTLLFDH2PT3X8ZFDBV9/*DSC00079.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624274532112-J1FVJZ977P1VWGCIYYO0/__MG_7143.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624273097418-VFA6LI436H6DEMU8QFSW/_-taxi-slogan-belong-my-life.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624272664086-PYFYF6PVVJSRJ2UROO0N/***PCS+20060130-06-0130+Sothon+Sanam+Luang-06-0130+BK+Sanam+Luang+squid+vendor+4393+PHAT+copy.jpg Biennale https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624273527115-KVKN1GAZC2BO8N0AZHLR/_19-0320+Election+posters+Bangrak+UddC+map+Phetburi+homeless+P2510572.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1624358385499-IP0BP01WHBL2NXHZEZJM/_11-0130+Thonglor+chairs+bamboo+scaffold+shophouse+alone+_MG_1384.jpg Biennale - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/biennale-text-english daily 0.75 2021-06-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623846247646-6WJUOKSPWTEAJSN6H4HY/_59A1627.jpg Biennale Intro English - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/biennale-intro-italian daily 0.75 2021-06-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623845719917-AYYDD40NO7RY3DVIXPP3/_59A1627.jpg Biennale Intro Italian - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/home-1 daily 0.75 2025-06-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5cee9df5880cbc000150d93b/1559772841781-IIH5RGD5481YYKXMD58I/image-asset.jpeg Home - The Paloma Podcast is hosted by Fran Tirado, a writer and speaker on all things queer. https://www.verybangkok.co/portfolio-2 daily 0.75 2021-03-24 https://www.verybangkok.co/portfolio-2/project-six-ca65j monthly 0.5 2021-03-24 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623927311840-CS9BREUTTYP72T0TSMJ5/VB+Index_Page_12.jpg Contents - Index - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623927225724-MV61BKF6VJLT3LR7ATV5/VB+Index_Page_07.jpg Contents - Index - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623927294956-LGMD489BE29N9F48YQAG/VB+Index_Page_11.jpg Contents - Index - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623927338886-KAI2ZPG765WHH94DLNGP/VB+Index_Page_13.jpg Contents - Index - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623927273848-96AD92T489T27SIGXAOW/VB+Index_Page_10.jpg Contents - Index - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623927242187-9TUX2PHJGD9Y4RMT5DF4/VB+Index_Page_08.jpg Contents - Index - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623927260731-4D5X50MKARBBDWG1Y2C2/VB+Index_Page_09.jpg Contents - Index - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.verybangkok.co/portfolio-2/project-five-tm7d9 monthly 0.5 2021-03-24 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616584331631-QXDV35YAY808IFUTOR6J/FOREWORD%2B19-0213%2BWat%2BPariwat%2BP2500692.jpg Contents - Preface by Lawrence Osborne https://www.verybangkok.co/portfolio-2/project-four-wg7tg monthly 0.5 2021-03-24 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620025964767-1QXQGPNWS9YM4P7G186F/_MG_1601.JPG Contents - Face - PORTRAYALS Courting attention, but hurt by scrutiny, Bangkok feels misunderstood. Understanding this place is hard, and many locals claim that’s not possible by non-Thais. Yet there’s a growing demand to know about what is now a major World City. More foreigners than ever are visiting, living and doing business here. There’s been a huge increase in arts, books and media coverage about the city, both for foreigners as well as by and for Bangkok’s residents. Bangkok had been a word-of-mouth city; now it’s becoming a known city. See portrayals of the city though every medium, from film to sci-fi, novels to lyrics, cartoons to street photography. pictured: Students at the Thammasat-Chulalongkorn Univeristy annual football match parade satirical floats like this one of the Great Flood of 2011. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620023006826-4LN41E1QEW5OHJ8LDFEH/**10-12+g10+Bkk+IMG_4881.JPG Contents - Face - MEMORY Monuments imply permanence, but here everything is impermanent. News and media have the means to record and contextualise what happened, yet they omit anything deemed ‘sensitive,’ due to self-censorship and private warnings. Under criminal defamation laws, truth is no defence. So we get blanks in the city’s memory. Forgetting is policy. Recent events dissolve before our very eyes, didn’t happen here. Remembering approved things is also policy. Lately, a new generation of historians, activists and indie creatives has been informing the public of the memory gaps and prompting a more inclusive story of the city that includes the taboo events, ethnicities and history-makers written out of the national narrative. pictured: An installation by Suttee Kunavichayanont about how Thai history gets erased and rewritten https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620022286623-1DL12AOTTDL2XNHJN5JO/*09-1108+Fat+Fest+2009+pics+IMG_1064.JPG Contents - Face - TOURIST TRAPPINGS Bangkok has consistently been the world’s most visited city until Covid-19 paused air travel. The Thai capital was also voted Best City by readers of Travel + Leisure four years running, and places at or near the top in other polls and charts. Bangkok loves being liked, but not all agree about what swelled this lackadaisical playground into the darling of those who love cities. Mention “Bangkok” to anyone and the response won’t be neutral. But what trips peoples’ triggers about Bangkok depends on the tourists themselves, whose origin and tastes keep shifting. Adventurers and misfits, GIs on R’n’R, backpackers, foodies, mass tourists, seekers of the exotic – and increasingly Bangkokians rediscovering their roots and their neighbours. pictured: A mall display about Kudi Jeen community to encourage Thais to visit that ancient Sino-Portuguese-Thai-Lao community. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1620026248780-TLBINXGWTM64X6LT2U7R/_risk+everything+expressboat_MG_0617.jpg Contents - Face - TIDES This unruly city goes through waves of chaos and order, protest and crackdown, planning and free-for-all. While some see salvation in top-down Singapore-like tidiness, others revel in the contradictions and diversity of ‘Messy Urbanism’. As rising seas threaten, this resilient city faces a return to its amphibious origins, coping with water as it copes with everything else, with a multiplicity of ad hoc adaptation. Whatever happens it will remain a city of surprise. pictured: A Chao Phraya River expressboat darts between a cargo barge and another expressboat with a slogan on its roof saying “#risk everything” https://www.verybangkok.co/portfolio-2/project-three-mphp8 monthly 0.5 2021-03-24 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1619951442572-HB4L9GI4LZMNCXC8D05T/15-0114+TAT+Thainess+parade+IMG_9042.jpg Contents - Heart - ROOTS Waves of internal migrants infused Bangkok’s informal sector with rural ways, from village organisation through to farmhouse recipes and folklore. Some country migrants reconstitute elements from their regional calendar, from re-enactments of Southern ghost rituals and Northern nail dance to concerts of molam music. While Bangkok-born generations increasingly identify as Thai, many Millennials are rediscovering the indigenous heritage that their parents and grandparents suppressed to become “Thai”. The state re-edits indigenous cultures in showcases like the annual Thainess Fair. Charming and fun, it’s ostensibly for tourism, but this cherry-picked jamboree of national harmony aims at bridging the regional rifts. pictured: urban migrants dressed up as rural folk for a Thainess festival https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1619952708567-BKMB4W5MG1LVT7727LGP/__08-0519+Bang+Kradi+Mon+Visakha+Bucha+8373.jpg Contents - Heart - COMMUNITY Fellow-feeling is a Bangkok trait. The streetlife and open-fronted shophouses put private social life on full public display, making informal community a visitor’s first and abiding impression of “village Bangkok.” The civic quilt retains urban hamlets that made the city a patchwork of close-knit clans. But sense of belonging has become less rooted in place or genes. Identity has spread to other affinities: career, peer group, Thainess, brands. Extended blood relations are atomising into nuclear families. Socially diverse neighbourhoods are re-sorting by class into generic condos, gated estates or gentrified lanes. In a new migration, bonding has gone online. pictured: the Mon enclave of Ban Kradee comes together on Buddhist days to cook food for monks and their neighbours. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1619953896019-UQICJ77P4AHZBBM73VNK/PCS+20100403-11-0403+Khlong+San+100+yr+fair-_MG_4473.jpg Contents - Heart - YOUTH Why is Bangkok’s youth protesting in the street? Ageism in the West consigns over-50s to the scrapheap, whereas Bangkok practices ageism against the young. Tradition relies on uncritical transmission of old ways, rather than critical thinking to find fresh ideas. Denied any form of space for expression, kids must conform through social initiations (ordination, conscription, student hazing, marriage). Modern pressures to loosen that grip provoke vehement backlash; after all, today’s old expect payback for their own earlier sacrifices. It was anger at the control of youth through uniforms and haircuts that sparked the wider revolt against Bangkok’s seniority system. pictured: a girl rides a cute tank in a fair at Thonburi on Children’s Day, when Thai youth are instilled with martial values. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1619952865515-077RZY6DMK3H3EZUYGH0/**Way+cover+71+cv71.jpg Contents - Heart - THAINESS AND THE CITY Beyond national pride in Thai exceptionalism from the rest of the world, Bangkokians often assert their exceptionalism within Thailand, as being better than provincials in education, taste, success and discipline, not to mention political judgment. For nearly a quarter millennium, the country has revolved around what the capital wants. Yet there’s little celebration of Bangkok as an urban phenomenon. The city’s sense of its own identity is cramped by how strongly Bangkokians identify with Nation. Yet this chaotic megalopolis violates that genteel national self-image. It’s as if citizens feel proud about the capital’s national qualities, but ambivalent, or perhaps realistic, about the city’s own character. It’s been the main gateway to what’s new in the world. Understanding Bangkokness is key to understanding Thai modernity. pictured: A cover of Way magazine about the character of Bangkokians, shy yet showing off, proclaiming love for Bangkok whilst identifying first with nation and scrubbing their city clean of whatever doesn’t fit their self-image. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1619951275501-TFFIIG11WZ56FVJUVCXT/11889541_1663338187246825_3324900031746805203_n.jpg Contents - Heart - BECOMING BANGKOKIAN Polyglot Bangkok prides itself on hosting people of any origin. Its scores of ethnic urban villages are living museums that draw tourist, expat and local curiosity. Yet their diversity is now dissolving into the mainstream. This peaceful absorption of minorities is a model success in this era of migration crises. Bangkok avoided most of the racial chauvinism and communal violence that’s plagued several ASEAN neighbours. Aliens can be Bangkokian too. With globalisation, half a million expatriates add a transnational vibe to what’s flowered into a World City. Though few long-stayers become citizens, many feel a sense of belonging to their adoptive town. pictured: Modern city, ancient mindsets. A mural-style painting, ‘Siam 2’ by Teerawat Nutcharoenpol from the exhibition Dramathais. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1619952566398-NVPSHFJYNHXAK3BND3OU/_09-1213+BK+Lad+Prao+Kwan+Im+_MG_2196.jpg Contents - Heart - STIR-FRY How Chinese is Bangkok? Bangkok can’t help but exude Chineseness, since the Chinese built most of it, are its majority ethnicity – and lived at this customs post before it became the capital. Pioneers set the tone of the settlement forever after, in both genetics and culture. Bangkok is less an epitome of Thai culture than a bubble of Sino-Thai hybrid subculture. In making themselves Thai, they have infused Thainess with Chineseness – and that stir-fry has become the national benchmark. The greatest indirect impact of Sino-Thais has been to revise what it means to be Thai. pictured: murals of Sino-Thai benefactors at the Kuan Yin shrine in Lad Phrao. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1619953766606-CAXFIUPTR2BDNQUVM1BD/_19-0115+tuktuk+wonderland+MBK+BACC+P2470593.jpg Contents - Heart - CREATIVE CITY Having a ‘Creative City’ has been seen a way to vault a country into the big league. But Bangkok faces a ‘Culture vs Creativity Dilemma.’ Top-down centralised decisions, the patronage system and a resistance to critical thinking crimp the efflorescence of creative impulses found throughout the informal street life. Yet an indie experimental culture was born in Bangkok’s democratic era and turbocharged when the 1997 crisis spawned creative industries by turning from imports to local resources. Today, the skill and quirkiness of Bangkokian creatives draw global attention to this city as as a place of freewheeling ideas international biennales and even its own unofficial Creative District. pictured: an artwork in the first Bangkok Art Biennale at Bangkok Art & Culture Centre https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1619953081812-HT5857X4RI46IPK3WUGW/%40*PCS+20080913-08-08%2609+Nang+Lerng+Wat+Suan+Kaew+Taling+Chan-_MG_0726.jpg Contents - Heart - MARKET This city known for markets is turning into a city known for malls. Both indoor and outdoor shopping flourish in this supremely capitalist capital, with malls that offer celebrities as your personal shopper, plus assistants to carry your bags. Yet there’s still a market for every trade, from amulets to antiques, DJ decks to dried fish. Hawkers busy the pavements like in no other world city, and turn any occasion into a sale. Temple rites spawn fairgrounds. Indie festivals treat designer stalls like art installations. With each class defining themselves through consumption, what’s most on display in this citywide ‘shop window’ is Bangkok society itself. All these vendor subcultures build community bonds. Trade spirals through Bangkok’s DNA. pictures: hawkers go by motorbike to sell food by the bag in the suburbs https://www.verybangkok.co/portfolio-2/project-two-j3r54 monthly 0.5 2021-03-24 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616579242314-RB19I6FDYCAXI5NLEFDS/***PCS+20101015-10-1015+Veg+Fest+parade+Talad+Noi-_MG_8388.jpg Contents - SENSES - SACRED Welcome to Buddhaland” proclaim billboards at Suvarnabhumi Airport. How faith is actually practised can be seen in the taxi ride to town. A Buddha image sits on the dashboard, often accompanied by figures of a great King, a Hindu god or a Chinese deity. Amulets rest over the speed dial, while multicoloured scarves bind the steering column. Drivers have magical tattoos; patriotic flag stickers frame the windows. The expressway to town passes several mosques and a couple of churches. Arrival in Bangkok reveals a city of various beliefs, that venerates the nation and a semi-divine King. pictured: a Sino-Thai boy enacts the Buddha in a procession through Talad Noi during the Hokkien Chinese Vegetarian Festival. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616581814557-SGKGNB5SA5Y4CB0WPKQ0/17-1027%252BR9cremation%252Bpics%252Btaxi%252Bcute%252BIMG_4370.jpg Contents - SENSES - SANUK Bangkok is more entertaining than most cities, bursting with jollity and startling sights. Sanuk (the fun sensibility) is a Bangkokian trait: the language fizzes with articulate wordplay, comedy is clownishly slapstick, and toonish mascots lighten everyday tasks, as in this taxi. Bewildered foreigners marvel at the spectacle but may wonder what the joke is. Introverts can struggle with it as ‘compulsory fun.’ The dynamic is uniquely Thai. Sanuk is not high culture but springs from folk ways. Hard tasks on the farm were made easier if group work became fun. pictured: mascots of cartoon characters scamper across the dash of a taxi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616581465259-A78JNT2PTUAN3T88BTEE/Heat%2Btuk%2Btuk%2B__DSC04966.jpg Contents - SENSES - HEAT & DAMP Bangkok teaches a lesson in humidity. Built in a swampy tropical delta, ringed by evaporating paddy and shrimp ponds, the city lies flat at sea level, in the torpid cleft between Indochina and its peninsula arm. Sheltered from bracing oceans, Bangkok is where air comes to wallow and put on weight. Thanks to technology, this is also a city of bracing indoor chill. Mall-freeze is also cultural. Convection vents cooled traditional buildings in a sustainable way, but they’re considered low status and outdated. Air-conditioning is a symbol of development, even luxury. pictured: A tuk-tuk surfs through a flash flood on downtown Ploenchit Road. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616583602031-RBN9ASHMTXTSP2USX9Y5/**TIME+SRT_DAY3-5407+copy.jpg Contents - SENSES - TIME At 8am and 6pm sharp, Bangkokians stop what they’re doing and stand. Across the city, pandemonium pauses while loudspeakered beeps count down to the playing of the National Anthem. Often accompanied by raising and lowering of the Thai flag, this ritual disciplines the day. The other landmark hour, the most popular one, is lunch, which is taken religiously at 12 noon. Buddhism’s ultimate lesson about time is to live in the moment. Farming requires only about half of the year, with the rest given over to leisure, so what punctual visitors might decry as an idle waste of precious hours, Thais call ‘empty time,’ which should best be spent being happy. pictured: the clock at Bang Sue Grand Station, Southeast Asia’s biggest rail hub, marks only one hour, nine in Thai numerals, to honour the late King Rama IX. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616579370607-K68RLUL8B77U1LU524SP/*16-0418+EmQuartier+songkran+DSC08819.JPG Contents - SENSES - LOOKING In Bangkok, there’s a lot to distract the eye. Trades, chores and pleasures take place in full public view. Exquisite in parts, sloppy en masse, the Thai capital challenges our notions of how a city should look. pictured: traditional bamboo sculpted into modern forms on the forecourt of the hi-tech EmQuartier mall. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616579607289-NQZHZMTTCNJUUEAG4IO4/**PCS+20100204-10-0204+Empower+Patpong-IMG_4244.jpg Contents - SENSES - LIBIDO Observers can’t help but contrast Bangkok’s prudish airs with its bawdy reputation and what Ross King calls its “libidinal landscape” of brothels, bars and steameries. Gay-friendliness, and the prominence of convincing transsexuals dubbed ‘ladyboys’ add spice to the cliché of ‘Sin City.’ Yet it could as easily be dubbed ‘Prim City.’ pictured: a part-peeled banana stands among the spirit offerings placed at the frontage of a go-go bar in Patpong. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616583911245-PXXNTH2KSEIIGKCW4FI8/**15-0118%2BTAT%2BThainess%2BfestIMG_9293%2Bsml.jpg Contents - SENSES - SENSORS While apps enhance some Thai social traits, the power of computing to standardise and subdue marks a fundamental wrench in Thai life. Gating by sensors could sap the city of its impromptu, easy-going character. Yet most of the digital disruption is keenly embraced. People in Thailand spend more time on the Internet than in any other nation, 9.38 hours a day, and the most online via mobile phone, 4.56 hours. Compared to the world average, Thais have many more Facebook friends. Networking technology turbocharged the city’s obsession with social connections. pictured: a couple take a selfie in a social media booth at the Thainess Festival. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616580118968-O3J7OQOL2VJZCS3V1ILK/13-0324%2BPetchaburi%2BRd%2BDSC00100.jpg Contents - SENSES - TOUCH This is a highly tactile city – but calibrated by taboos about touching and hierarchical seating. Younger and lower-status Bangkokians will still happily sit on the floor. This is a rare metropolis where much is still handmade. Sticky-rice baskets and garlands of folded petals humanise the city by conveying a depth of manual care. Yet Bangkok is touchy about touching. Bangkokians shrink from incidental contact, unless it’s a trusted commitment – as among family, friends or lovers – or a professional job. Masseurs, like hairdressers, will wai you for permission to contact your sacred body. pictured: Migrants from Isaan handcraft palm-leaf toys in an abandoned shopfront at Phrakhanong. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616580848979-94BWV9Z64P5XHZ08OQTG/**IMG_7421.jpg Contents - SENSES - SUFFERING Bangkok is often cited as being remarkably safe to stroll at night, even for lone women. But there’s a disjoint between how safe you feel and how at risk some people actually are. The Thai media is full of lurid crime reports that rarely get coverage in English, although gun crime is as high as in the US. Buddhism’s unflinching focus on suffering has a flip side: compassion. A Thai ethic is to show composure in the face of suffering. Yet if ‘face’ is at stake, reactions can be vehement. What hurts the most is feelings. pictured: Among the provocative installations Death Café – in the Kit Mai (Think Anew) Buddhist centre in Aree – you can test out a coffin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616579736429-DSVDK536JH3GT33193T0/**PCS%252Bhi-res%252B20110212-11-0209%252BCalypso%252BCabaret-_MG_2677.jpg Contents - SENSES - NIGHT “My name is Bangkok and I’m a reformed partyholic. Once infamous for nightlife addiction with ribald girlie bars, I was a city that never slept, but now I’m going to bed a bit earlier.” A big night out is now less about saucy cabarets and after-hours dives, and more likely to involve artisanal cocktails at a designer lounge or a one-nighter theme-party at shifting venues like Trasher, under direction of their charismatic impresarios. pictured: dancers lift a trans singer in the Calypso Cabaret show. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616583328837-7YV3TS5WJNW6KDUXPCJW/_05-0601+Origin+BK+Martial+arts+1+krabi+7252.jpg Contents - SENSES - BALANCE Bangkok knocks newcomers off balance. Sois with no sidewalks force feet to splay along V-shaped gutters. Guy cables threaten to garrotte those who don’t duck. Tourists stride boldly where this City of Angels fear to tread. Meanwhile, Thais nimbly avoid all the hazards. Thai culture hails balance as a virtue, exemplified in muaythai, dance, and worship. Notice how delicately a Thai wrist tilts to receive a garland. From Buddhism, mindfulness in the moment and a spirit of non-confrontation lead people to subtly dodge rather than lunge. School kids get taught marayaat – formal etiquette that displays upbringing and inspires harmony. pictured: a martial artists dances to honour his teachers in a wai khru rite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1616582400976-NQNTS6SOLE253PDB3TT2/**PCS%2B20090928-09-0928%2BNavaratri%2BFest%2BWat%2BKhaek-IMG_0219.jpg Contents - SENSES - TRANCE A vast occult subculture encompasses mediums, shamans and a middle-class cult of worshipping Hindu deities. Conducted mostly beneath the mainstream radar, it surfaces at the annual Navaratri Festival in Silom. Raang song (mediums) speak in the tongues of their adoptive beings. They may summon a known deceased person, but usually call upon a generic deity or historical figure using telltale postures, props and acts of self-mortification with blades or flames. Devotees, too, can slip into trance. Involuntarily they take on the attributes of that soul, expressed through mannerisms, convulsions and interpretive dance. Many faint upon coming out of trance. Others bring them round by stroking their ears. Pictured: a self-mortifying medium at Navaratri writes mantras for devotees. https://www.verybangkok.co/portfolio-2/project-one-yx97m monthly 0.5 2021-03-24 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/605717a3407338398977117a/1623926702933-69Y3PCR2H5NBLH3EW2NB/18-0501+Old+town+Ban+Mor+canal+graffit+bts+IMG_2780+copy.jpg Contents - Introduction - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.